How I DIYed Open Shelving for Under $200

I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I am to share this project with you!  I have been wanting to do this for awhile because I knew if I removed the little cabinet I would gain so much storage by getting rid of it.. and guess what I did! I’m going to share my process of how I removed and installed open shelving all for my kitchen and all under two hundred bucks! FYI I am not a professional I just do what I do …I also handled it myself total #girlpower even to the point I refused to ask for help at Home Depot

like when I say lil oh me can do it …you can do it!

Now that I think about on Instagram I originally said it was $194.25 to complete this project but it’s NOT because also I got knobs for the cabinet drawers that were $3.65 x3 that’s 10 bucks and 10 bucks are 10 bucks +95 cents for $183.30 let’s handle this project! ♥ the price may be different depending on how many supplies you have on hand!

Before Pictures

Let’s get started

First I suggest you measure the largest thing you will be putting on the shelf… Mine was my dinner plates, they were 10″ round so I know I needed a shelf larger than 10″. My wall itself is 61″ (an inch bigger than 5′) so I decided to go with a 48″ self to give to give a little space on either side. 

Next, I made my shopping list. I went 3 times so let’s see if I can make it so you can only go once! although I did hear it’s not a true DIY if you don’t go to The Home Depot more than twice and have at least 1 return it doesn’t count.. hahaha!  

I removed the cabinet on a Monday and finished by Thursdays doing a little each day all while keeping up with my mom and wife duties as well.. the time may differ depending on your schedule 


I found everything at The Home Depot

Plumbing Aisle 

6- 3/4″ flange ( the circle base)

 6- 3/4″ x 12″ nipple (the long pipe)

6- 3/4″ cap (for the end)

6- 3/4″ copper straps

Lumber Aisle

2- 3/4 x 11 3/4 x 97″ Melamine Board  (cut in half → they do it there!!!)

 Paint Aisle 

I – Rust-Oleum 2X ultra coverage paint + primer Spray paint  (white)

1- Rust-Oleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish spray paint  (bright coat copper)

1- 1 lb, of  DAB painter’s putty (white)

1- 16 oz. DAB Dry Dex Spackling

 Nut and Bolt Aisle 

12- 3″ wood screws

2 packages Sharkie 5/16″ screw anchors

At home supplies 

power drill


measuring tape



Start by removing the cabinet doors, the inside shelves, then the entire cabinet itself. There was 6-7 long 3″ I started removing the nails on the bottom, top and then a few behind the crown molding up top. this was the only point I needed my husbands help.. as I unscrewed he held the cabinet from crashing down.


Time to prepare the wall for the shelves. I had a square from where the cabinet was that needed to be painted, I had to fill all the holes with putty and float the wall to level it out.. so depending on what you will have going on now is the time to handle that!


Next, I took all my hardware and sprayed them a fresh coat of white to make the copper pop! I wanted for it to completely dry before painting over with copper.

*I also sprayed my screw tops for a finished look

When that paint was drying I took leftover white paint I had around the house and painted the edges of the wood white.


I found that my studs were 16 1/2″ from the window (every house is different, I was told it should be 12″ away but NOPE!) so that’s where I wanted my shelf support (flange) to be. Typically studs are 24″ apart from each other, but like I said it just depends… My next stud was 2″ too far from where I’d liked them to be so I decided to put it where it looked the best. Because there was no support at all I used wall anchors that hold up to 40lbs a screw.. each flange needs 4 screws so that’s basically 160lbs each support.

I also measured the other side of the window, the distance between the window and the cabinets, the distance from the counter to the bottom of the cabinet and from the ceiling to the cabinet so when you look straight on the cabinet and the open shelving will be the same heights and distance apart.


I suggest before you start to drill you double and triple check your measurements. I put my flange on the wall made my pencil marks for both sides then measured once more… I then put a level up just to make sure.

After I drilled my first flange to the wall on the stud side using my 3″ wood screws.. then I moved to the other side without a stud. I screwed all the screws in the unscrewed them to have my holes… I then hammered in the plastic anchors before I topped it with my flange and screwed in.

*tip* add pressure toward the wall when you are drilling your screws in so you don’t strip the screws

After I finished both sides I screwed in the pipe (nipple) by hand and topped them both with a cap. I placed my shelf on top, checked with my level and BAM my first shelf was up!!

With the shelf still on I measured up to see what distance I wanted until the next shelf.. 13 1/2″ worked best for me. I took the shelf and pipe (nipple) off to then measure from the middle of the flange up 13 1/2″ on both sides, marked it then repeated the same steps again until you are done!

Place shelves on and level, if they are level you can secure your shelves to the pipes by using a copper strap.


I loved how open it makes my kitchen look and feel. It’s weird how I love unloading the dishwasher now.. everything fits plus more!! I stuck with what I needed and of course what we used the most. On the bottom shelf, I have all my coffee stuff, french press, mugs, and glasses. All my plates are nice and uniform in white, I think that’s just a clean look, on the top shelf I added some pink and gold bowls and plants.. stuff we never use it just looks pretty.


 What’s next?!

Up next in the kitchen I’m going to DIY concrete over my tile so stay tuned for that!!!

But First, my stencil came for my bathroom floor. I painted over a stone and now I’m going to stencil it!

Please leave me a comment if you have any questions or if there’s something you want to see more of …let me know!

Thank you so much for stopping by!!